Category Archives: Marine Wire
Anderson Connectors or Anderson Plugs as they are more commonly known, are designed for connecting large cables used in high current applications.
Each plug is a mirror of the other and are simple to assemble, There is no Male & Female. One simply connects into another of the same amperage. The plugs push together to form a very solid and reliable connection.
A common application in marine would be in the wiring that distributes AC power.
From the Anderson Power Products website:
Anderson Power Products is an industry leader in the manufacture of high current, quick-disconnect power connectors and provides a variety of interconnect solutions for the material handling, telecommunications, medical, power electronics and other industries. Our connectors are available from 10 to 700 amp maximum ratings for use through 600 Volts continuous, AC or DC operation. We are well known for our ability to develop creative solutions for our customers’ power interconnect requirements. We are flexible and will make modifications to standard products or develop complete custom solutions to satisfy particular customers’ needs. APP provides a complete engineered interconnect solution for all types of power distribution needs.
Battery cables are one of the most crucial parts of any boat wiring system.
The foundation of the entire 12 volt marine electrical system is the batteries – both for energy and grounding, which are equally important. For each, the battery cable is a pivotal link.
Because of the nature of DC power and the easy potential for current loss over distance, battery cables are constructed of thick heavy duty copper and highly insulated. This makes them not only bulky, but expensive.
Good marine electrical design will use the optimal thickness (gauge) of the cables to provide the most current, while attempting to limit the distance they run, as longer runs necessitate increasing the gauge. Typically the cables will be terminated with either battery lugs (for the battery connection) or ring terminals, or most commonly a combination of the two.
Battery cables are available from many sources, although several websites now offer completely custom battery cables. The flexibility of these configurations allows boaters to get precisely the length, color, gauge and end-fittings that their boat wiring project requires.
Battery management is the efficient monitor and control the outflow of power from your boat’s batteries.
The “prime directive” of marine electrical battery management to to avoid the overuse of this finite power supply, which may eventually compromise an important function, like starting your engine. 
Marine electrical battery management can be as simple as monitoring a voltmeter to determine battery voltage; to the use of switches to turn on certain batteries, while isolating others from use ; to having sophisticated voltage sensitive relays that will do the job of monitoring levels and switching batteries on and off automatically – often called a Smart Battery Switch.
Any boater that will be spending time at anchor running electrical accessories, like stereos, will need to maintain some awareness of the condition and level of their battery supply and life. The inability to restart an engine (which is a key source of recharge for the batteries), or to lose the use of a boat’s navigation lighting, boat horns or bilge pumps because of dead batteries is a situation to be avoided. Thus the importance of battery management.
The boat (Hammer P) is a 1966 -35 ft. OWENS flagship. She is double plank mahogany on oak frames, Teak decks and fiberglass cabin shell and fly bridge.
Equipment when we got her included mismatched and somewhat tired For V8 engines, Borg-Warner Velvet Drive transmissions all fresh water-cooled. Also outfitted with a 6.5 KW Kohler Gen- Set.
By mid 2006, I had decided that re-powering was essential. Having toyed with the electric idea for a year or so, I finally decided- "Just Do it" and began the search for a supplier for all the components. After considerable browsing catalogs and online information, this is what I chose for our application: (This is basic electric stuff)
2-Advanced DC Motors-L91-4003-13hp-72Volt
2-Curtis-PMC Motor Controllers- 72Volt-400amp
2-Merritt Inline Joystick control
2 -Albright Main Contactors
2 -Albright Reversing Contactors
3 -400 amp Ferraz/S'mut Safety Fuses
1-Link 10 E Meter
1-Onboard Charger 48-108 volt
2-Deltec Amp meter shunts
2-Westberg Ammeters
180 Lin. feet 2/0 Welding cable
90 Cable Lugs
24 -L16H Trojan Batteries
That is pretty much the electrics of the system, plus misc. hook up wire, etc.
The Mechanics portion needs some thought: Motor to shaft reduction, belt tensioner and battery placement. As you will see by the photos, I had to lengthen the propeller shaft to accommodate the larger pulley for a reduction ratio. I chose a 4:1 reduction because the motors need to turn fast enough to run cool and I need 1000rpm at the shaft to match our previous cruising speed. The rest of the mounting hardware is like a big erector set. All bolted parts were pre-drilled except for bolting to the original engine bunks. These were bolted in place after shaft augment. Motor mounts are adjustable for belt tension and tracking.
There are two flange bearings each side, and opposed for thrust bearings. This all makes a fairly compact package and we can now decide on battery placement. In our case, we are designing a 72 Volt system. Battery placement is somewhat a balancing act. Original components, (fuel) was stored behind the drive train and of course, motors amid ship. Fuel weight (160 gallons) was about 1300 lbs. Motors and transmissions about 1500 lbs. New battery pack weight: about 3000 lbs. To best balance the boat, I put 8 batteries forward and four behind each motor. With motors, batteries and electrical equipment we have an approximate weight gain of 1000 lbs.
Now, looking at performance. First we need to consider the boat Shape and Hull design. As the professionals see it, this is the second poorest hull design for electric power. Only a barge with square ends is worse. The ideal craft would have a sharp entry, a long waterline length and the transom out of the water. Boat design is always subject to compromise and the ideal form is not always practical. In our case, we will work with what is at hand and improvise, compromise and succeed.
Operation of the boat has not really changed. Still have twin props, still a hull speed just short of 6 knots (6.9 mph). What has changed is the planning and navigation. Without regenerative power we have to plan with power consumption. With batteries one should not run them totally dead. Always plan for about a 20% 'no touch' area to protect the battery life. In our case, we have about 670 usable amps that are available. Our "E' meter tells us exactly what power we have used and how long it will last based upon the rate of discharge over the last 10-12 minutes. It's nice to have that information available at the touch of a button.
For our longer distance cruises, we have adapted a temporary generator that run our battery charger at about 10 amps at best. Hi tech. chargers and modified sine wave generators are not very compatible for high output.Even the 10 amps will help some to increase longer distances. Over a 6-hour cruise, those 10 amps will return 60amps. Ifwe are traveling at 60 amps this has gained an extra hour of travel time. Of course now that we have made the trip, if it was one way, we need to allow adequate time to recharge. If we have used 550 amps and the charger output is 20 amps, potentially it could take 30-36 hours to recharge. Discharge rate and your speed are directly related and the need for speed shortens the trip. Here are some discharge rates that will help:
40-amp draw will run about 12.5 hrs.
60-amp draw will run about 8.5 hrs.
80-amp draw will run about 6.25 hrs.
Needless to say, the faster you attempt to travel, the shorter your travel time will be. This is where hull speed, weight and power storageneed to be considered.
The marine environment is a hostile one for electrical wire. Wire used on board a marine vessel will potentially be exposed to numerous obstacles, such as salt water, sunlight, heat and other outside hindrances. All electrical wires are not constructed to endure the problems associated with marine conditions and therefore will not be suitable wiring on boats or ships. In these situations, marine wire or boat cable may be necessary.
Marine
wire, boat cable, and marine primary wire are terms you may have heard used in
reference to electrical wiring for boats or marine vessels. Wiring specified as
"marine" or "boat" is different in several ways from other types of electrical
wire, such as power wire used in the home, or automotive wire, etc. A main
difference is that the conditions surrounding marine installations require
marine wire and boat cable to perform better than other wires designed chiefly
for land use.
A marine wire is specifically designed and engineered for the electrical wiring of boats and is intended for all possible uses abroad a ship. Marine wire may be distributed to the pleasure boat and commercial marine industries and is often used by boat builders. The term "boat cable" may often be used interchangeably with marine wire or marine cable. Boat cable usually refers to general electrical wiring used on a boat. Marine wire that may fall into the sweeping category of "boat cable" often starts as a single conductor cable. Extra wires are added from there into one cable, consequently creating multi conductor boat cable.
Because of the demanding marine environment, approved marine wire usually possesses a copper conductor. In addition, the jacket of the cable will most likely have been tested for flammability safety. The jacket and the insulation should be rated water resistant.
The most frequently requested single conductor boat cable styles are marine primary wire and marine battery cable. The cables are extremely similar. The main factor that differentiates the two is the AWG size of the cable. According to General Isles Marine, single conductor boat cable in sizes 16 AWG up to 8 AWG are widely known as primary wire sizes. The larger single conductor marine cables ranging from size 6 AWG up to 4/0 AWG are known as battery cable sizes.
Often times, marine wire and boat cable provided by a manufacturer or distributor will meet the requirements of UL, SAE, Coast Guard, ABYC, and NMMA. The American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC), the United States Coast Guard (USCG), the National Marine Manufacturers Association (NMMA) and the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) have developed safety standards and guidelines for marine electrical installations specifically serving manufacturers, technicians, and even boat owners.
Corrosion is a primary cause of electrical failures on a boat. In order to avoid the common problem, marine wire and boat cable are built to resist quick decay. In both wet and dry conditions, marine wire needs to behave consistently in order to perform properly. Marine wire, boat cable and marine primary wire may possess PVC insulation for added defense against the elements. After all, they need all of the help they can get.
The remaining links
will examine the various types of marine wire and boat cable on the market
today.
Common Types of Marine Wire
Marine Primary Wire (Tinned Copper)
Marine Primary Wire may also be listed as Tinned Primary Wire. The copper conductor will usually possess a tin coating which causes the strand to be called "tinned copper." Tinned copper marine primary wire is built to reduce corrosion and prevent electrical failure.
Marine Primary Wire (Tinned Copper) can be used in 105"C marine applications, in the internal wiring of electrical equipment and for general circuit wiring. It is employed for electrical connections in the marine and automotive environments where a tinned conductor is preferred. The marine primary wire may additionally be utilized for motorcycles and other applications requiring a high temperature primary wire. Tinned copper marine wire performs well in all marine environments, even in saltwater.
You may see marine primary wire listed as UL 1426 marine grade wire. Most brands of tinned primary wire will meet the requirements of the US Coast Guard and ABYC, as well as others.
Marine Primary Wire (Bare Copper)
Marine Primary Wire (Bare Copper) can be used in 105"C marine applications, in internal wiring of electrical equipment and for general circuit wiring. The marine primary wire shares many of the same applications and properties as tinned primary wire. However, the conductor is bare copper instead of tinned copper.
SAE Primary Wire
SAE Primary Wire is General Purpose Thermoplastic (GPT) insulated primary wire that corresponds to SAE specifications, generally specifications J1128 and J378. SAE Primary Wire may be used for general purpose marine and automotive applications. It usually has a temperature range of -20"C to 105"C and voltage rating of 50 volts.
Flat Boat Cable
Flat Boat Cable is a multi-conductor marine cable that can be used for marine or brake cable. The boat cable usually meets UL Standard 1426 and UL Style BC-5W2. Flat boat cable also may meet DOT Coast Guard specs. The boat cable has a PVC insulated multi-conductor.
Round Boat Cable
Round Boat Cable is much like flat boat cable. However, round boat cable makes for easy installation where tight, jagged spaces are present. Many installers of boat cable favor round cables because they are easier to arrange. Additionally, round boat cable may be used for harsh environments.
Marine Battery Cable
Marine Battery Cable generally has a temperature range of
-20"C to 105"C and a voltage rating of 50 volts. The battery cable also resists
oil, fuel and acid. Marine battery cable is designed to survive the harsh marine
environments. The cable normally has a high strand count cable with tin plated
copper stranding. Marine battery cable may be used in battery
installations.
Using an electrical meter safely and
efficiently is perhaps the most valuable skill an electronics technician can
master, both for the sake of their own personal safety and for proficiency at
their trade. It can be daunting at first to use a meter, knowing that you are connecting it to live circuits
which may harbor life-threatening levels of voltage and current. This concern is
not unfounded, and it is always best to proceed cautiously when using meters.
Carelessness more than any other factor is what causes experienced technicians
to have electrical accidents.
The most common piece of electrical test equipment is a meter called the multimeter. Multimeters are so named because they have the ability to measure a multiple of variables: voltage, current, resistance, and often many others, some of which cannot be explained here due to their complexity. In the hands of a trained technician, the multimeter is both an efficient work tool and a safety device. In the hands of someone ignorant and/or careless, however, the multimeter may become a source of danger when connected to a "live" circuit.
There are many different brands of multimeters, with multiple models made by each manufacturer sporting different sets of features. The multimeter shown here in the following illustrations is a "generic" design, not specific to any manufacturer, but general enough to teach the basic principles of use:
You will notice that the display of this meter is of the "digital" type: showing numerical values using four digits in a manner similar to a digital clock. The rotary selector switch (now set in the Off position) has five different measurement positions it can be set in: two "V" settings, two "A" settings, and one setting in the middle with a funny-looking "horseshoe" symbol on it representing "resistance." The "horseshoe" symbol is the Greek letter "Omega" (Ω), which is the common symbol for the electrical unit of ohms.
Of the two "V" settings and two "A" settings, you will notice that each pair is divided into unique markers with either a pair of horizontal lines (one solid, one dashed), or a dashed line with a squiggly curve over it. The parallel lines represent "DC" while the squiggly curve represents "AC." The "V" of course stands for "voltage" while the "A" stands for "amperage" (current). The meter uses different techniques, internally, to measure DC than it uses to measure AC, and so it requires the user to select which type of voltage (V) or current (A) is to be measured. Although we haven't discussed alternating current (AC) in any technical detail, this distinction in meter settings is an important one to bear in mind.
There are three different sockets on the multimeter face into which we can plug our test leads. Test leads are nothing more than specially-prepared wires used to connect the meter to the circuit under test. The wires are coated in a color-coded (either black or red) flexible insulation to prevent the user's hands from contacting the bare conductors, and the tips of the probes are sharp, stiff pieces of wire:
The black test lead always plugs into the black socket on the multimeter: the one marked "COM" for "common." The red test lead plugs into either the red socket marked for voltage and resistance, or the red socket marked for current, depending on which quantity you intend to measure with the multimeter.
To see how this works, let's look at a couple of examples showing the meter in use. First, we'll set up the meter to measure DC voltage from a battery:
Note that the two test leads are plugged into the appropriate sockets on the meter for voltage, and the selector switch has been set for DC "V". Now, we'll take a look at an example of using the multimeter to measure AC voltage from a household electrical power receptacle (wall socket):
The only difference in the setup of the meter is the placement of the selector switch: it is now turned to AC "V". Since we're still measuring voltage, the test leads will remain plugged in the same sockets. In both of these examples, it is imperative that you not let the probe tips come in contact with one another while they are both in contact with their respective points on the circuit. If this happens, a short-circuit will be formed, creating a spark and perhaps even a ball of flame if the voltage source is capable of supplying enough current! The following image illustrates the potential for hazard:
This is just one of the ways that a meter can become a source of hazard if used improperly.
Voltage measurement is perhaps the most common function a multimeter is used for. It is certainly the primary measurement taken for safety purposes (part of the lock-out/tag-out procedure), and it should be well understood by the operator of the meter. Being that voltage is always relative between two points, the meter must be firmly connected to two points in a circuit before it will provide a reliable measurement. That usually means both probes must be grasped by the user's hands and held against the proper contact points of a voltage source or circuit while measuring.
Because a hand-to-hand shock current path is the most dangerous, holding the meter probes on two points in a high-voltage circuit in this manner is always a potential hazard. If the protective insulation on the probes is worn or cracked, it is possible for the user's fingers to come into contact with the probe conductors during the time of test, causing a bad shock to occur. If it is possible to use only one hand to grasp the probes, that is a safer option. Sometimes it is possible to "latch" one probe tip onto the circuit test point so that it can be let go of and the other probe set in place, using only one hand. Special probe tip accessories such as spring clips can be attached to help facilitate this.
Remember that meter test leads are part of the whole equipment package, and that they should be treated with the same care and respect that the meter itself is. If you need a special accessory for your test leads, such as a spring clip or other special probe tip, consult the product catalog of the meter manufacturer or other test equipment manufacturer. Do not try to be creative and make your own test probes, as you may end up placing yourself in danger the next time you use them on a live circuit.
Also, it must be remembered that digital multimeters usually do a good job of discriminating between AC and DC measurements, as they are set for one or the other when checking for voltage or current. As we have seen earlier, both AC and DC voltages and currents can be deadly, so when using a multimeter as a safety check device you should always check for the presence of both AC and DC, even if you're not expecting to find both! Also, when checking for the presence of hazardous voltage, you should be sure to check all pairs of points in question.
For example, suppose that you opened up an electrical wiring cabinet to find three large conductors supplying AC power to a load. The circuit breaker feeding these wires (supposedly) has been shut off, locked, and tagged. You double-checked the absence of power by pressing the Start button for the load. Nothing happened, so now you move on to the third phase of your safety check: the meter test for voltage.
First, you check your meter on a known source of voltage to see that it's working properly. Any nearby power receptacle should provide a convenient source of AC voltage for a test. You do so and find that the meter indicates as it should. Next, you need to check for voltage among these three wires in the cabinet. But voltage is measured between two points, so where do you check?
The answer is to check between all combinations of those three points. As you can see, the points are labeled "A", "B", and "C" in the illustration, so you would need to take your multimeter (set in the voltmeter mode) and check between points A & B, B & C, and A & C. If you find voltage between any of those pairs, the circuit is not in a Zero Energy State. But wait! Remember that a multimeter will not register DC voltage when it's in the AC voltage mode and vice versa, so you need to check those three pairs of points in each mode for a total of six voltage checks in order to be complete!
However, even with all that checking, we still haven't covered all possibilities yet. Remember that hazardous voltage can appear between a single wire and ground (in this case, the metal frame of the cabinet would be a good ground reference point) in a power system. So, to be perfectly safe, we not only have to check between A & B, B & C, and A & C (in both AC and DC modes), but we also have to check between A & ground, B & ground, and C & ground (in both AC and DC modes)! This makes for a grand total of twelve voltage checks for this seemingly simple scenario of only three wires. Then, of course, after we've completed all these checks, we need to take our multimeter and re-test it against a known source of voltage such as a power receptacle to ensure that it's still in good working order.
Using a multimeter to check for resistance is a much simpler task. The test leads will be kept plugged in the same sockets as for the voltage checks, but the selector switch will need to be turned until it points to the "horseshoe" resistance symbol. Touching the probes across the device whose resistance is to be measured, the meter should properly display the resistance in ohms:
One very important thing to remember about measuring resistance is that it must only be done on de-energized components! When the meter is in "resistance" mode, it uses a small internal battery to generate a tiny current through the component to be measured. By sensing how difficult it is to move this current through the component, the resistance of that component can be determined and displayed. If there is any additional source of voltage in the meter-lead-component-lead-meter loop to either aid or oppose the resistance-measuring current produced by the meter, faulty readings will result. In a worse-case situation, the meter may even be damaged by the external voltage.
The "resistance" mode of a multimeter is very useful in determining wire continuity as well as making precise measurements of resistance. When there is a good, solid connection between the probe tips (simulated by touching them together), the meter shows almost zero Ω. If the test leads had no resistance in them, it would read exactly zero:
If the leads are not in contact with each other, or touching opposite ends of a broken wire, the meter will indicate infinite resistance (usually by displaying dashed lines or the abbreviation "O.L." which stands for "open loop"):
By far the most hazardous and complex application of the multimeter is in the measurement of current. The reason for this is quite simple: in order for the meter to measure current, the current to be measured must be forced to go through the meter. This means that the meter must be made part of the current path of the circuit rather than just be connected off to the side somewhere as is the case when measuring voltage. In order to make the meter part of the current path of the circuit, the original circuit must be "broken" and the meter connected across the two points of the open break. To set the meter up for this, the selector switch must point to either AC or DC "A" and the red test lead must be plugged in the red socket marked "A". The following illustration shows a meter all ready to measure current and a circuit to be tested:
Now, the circuit is broken in preparation for the meter to be connected:
The next step is to insert the meter in-line with the circuit by connecting the two probe tips to the broken ends of the circuit, the black probe to the negative (-) terminal of the 9-volt battery and the red probe to the loose wire end leading to the lamp:
This example shows a very safe circuit to work with. 9 volts hardly constitutes a shock hazard, and so there is little to fear in breaking this circuit open (bare handed, no less!) and connecting the meter in-line with the flow of electrons. However, with higher power circuits, this could be a hazardous endeavor indeed. Even if the circuit voltage was low, the normal current could be high enough that an injurious spark would result the moment the last meter probe connection was established.
Another potential hazard of using a multimeter in its current-measuring ("ammeter") mode is failure to properly put it back into a voltage-measuring configuration before measuring voltage with it. The reasons for this are specific to ammeter design and operation. When measuring circuit current by placing the meter directly in the path of current, it is best to have the meter offer little or no resistance against the flow of electrons. Otherwise, any additional resistance offered by the meter would impede the electron flow and alter the circuit's operation. Thus, the multimeter is designed to have practically zero ohms of resistance between the test probe tips when the red probe has been plugged into the red "A" (current-measuring) socket. In the voltage-measuring mode (red lead plugged into the red "V" socket), there are many mega-ohms of resistance between the test probe tips, because voltmeters are designed to have close to infinite resistance (so that they don't draw any appreciable current from the circuit under test).
When switching a multimeter from current- to voltage-measuring mode, it's easy to spin the selector switch from the "A" to the "V" position and forget to correspondingly switch the position of the red test lead plug from "A" to "V". The result -- if the meter is then connected across a source of substantial voltage -- will be a short-circuit through the meter!
To help prevent this, most multimeters have a warning feature by which they beep if ever there's a lead plugged in the "A" socket and the selector switch is set to "V". As convenient as features like these are, though, they are still no substitute for clear thinking and caution when using a multimeter.
All good-quality multimeters contain fuses inside that are engineered to "blow" in the event of excessive current through them, such as in the case illustrated in the last image. Like all overcurrent protection devices, these fuses are primarily designed to protect the equipment (in this case, the meter itself) from excessive damage, and only secondarily to protect the user from harm. A multimeter can be used to check its own current fuse by setting the selector switch to the resistance position and creating a connection between the two red sockets like this:
A good fuse will indicate very little resistance while a blown fuse will always show "O.L." (or whatever indication that model of multimeter uses to indicate no continuity). The actual number of ohms displayed for a good fuse is of little consequence, so long as it's an arbitrarily low figure.
So now that we've seen how to use a multimeter to measure voltage, resistance, and current, what more is there to know? Plenty! The value and capabilities of this versatile test instrument will become more evident as you gain skill and familiarity using it. There is no substitute for regular practice with complex instruments such as these, so feel free to experiment on safe, battery-powered circuits.
REVIEW:- A meter capable of checking for voltage, current, and resistance is called a multimeter,
- As voltage is always relative between two points, a voltage-measuring meter ("voltmeter") must be connected to two points in a circuit in order to obtain a good reading. Be careful not to touch the bare probe tips together while measuring voltage, as this will create a short-circuit!
- Remember to always check for both AC and DC voltage when using a multimeter to check for the presence of hazardous voltage on a circuit. Make sure you check for voltage between all pair-combinations of conductors, including between the individual conductors and ground!
- When in the voltage-measuring ("voltmeter") mode, multimeters have very high resistance between their leads.
- Never try to read resistance or continuity with a multimeter on a circuit that is energized. At best, the resistance readings you obtain from the meter will be inaccurate, and at worst the meter may be damaged and you may be injured.
- Current measuring meters ("ammeters") are always connected in a circuit so the electrons have to flow through the meter.
- When in the current-measuring ("ammeter") mode, multimeters have practically no resistance between their leads. This is intended to allow electrons to flow through the meter with the least possible difficulty. If this were not the case, the meter would add extra resistance in the circuit, thereby affecting the current.
Nanobots are full-time employees of Ancor Wire who move copper to those areas of a boat’s marine electrical system that most require it.
Employed in a process called Nanotechnological Overload Sensing Heat Induced Tranference, the nanobots work to allow a boat wiring harness to move copper according to the power demands of attached accessories. This feature is currently found exclusively in Nanotech Brand Wire.
Because of limited production, this clever boat wiring product is only available one day each year.
An innovation in boat wiring introduced by Ancor in 2010, Nanotechnological Overload Sensing Heat Induced Tranference allows a boat wiring harness to move copper according to the power demands of attached accessories.
Available commercially as Nanotech Brand Wire, the wire reacts to temperature increases in a wiring system by deploying an army of nanobots who quickly rebuild the harness to match the power demand.
Those who have witnessed a copper transfer say that the process is reminiscent of a python swallowing a large rat.
The Nanotech System works great unless there are so many accessories turned on that there is not enough copper available. On boats where this is a common occurance, a copper reservoir can be used to supply additional material as needed – once the fires are extinguished.
Because of limited production, this clever boat wiring product is only available one day each year.
AC CIRCUITS
- AC Reverse Polarity
- AC Reverse Polarity False Indicators
- Current Flow in 120/240 Volt AC Systems
- Differences in US and European AC Panels
- Green Wire (Controversy)
- Neutral (White) to Ground (Green) Bond Switching
- Reverse Polarity Indicators
BATTERY SWITCHING
- Five Reasons to Use a Remote Battery Switch
- Choosing the Ideal Remote Battery Switch
- Remote Battery Switch Improves ABYC Compliance in Battery Management
- CHARGING AND CHARGE MANAGEMENT
- Alternator Field Disconnect
- Battery Isolators and Automatic Charging Relays
- Charge Management
- Multiple Output Battery Chargers
- Applications of ACR and Multi-Program Multi-Output Chargers
- Solving ACR/Multi-Program Multi-Output Charger Interference
- Preventing Cycling in Battery Combiners, Voltage Sensitive Relays, and Automatic Charging Relays
CIRCUIT PROTECTION
- Choosing Circuit Protection
- Circuit Protection
- DC Circuit Protection
- DC Main Overcurrent Protection Requirements
- Fuse/Circuit Breaker Speed Explained
- Fusing the Negative Circuit of ACRs and Other Electric Relays
DC AND AC CIRCUIT WIRING
- Common Switching Applications
- Grounding and Circuit Protection for Inverters and Battery Chargers
- Organizing the Tangle of Wires on My Boat's Battery Terminal
- Navigation Light Switching for Vessels Under 20 Meters
- Ten Deadly Conditions to Check for in Your Boat's Electrical System - Part 1
- Ten Deadly Conditions to Check for in Your Boat's Electrical System - Part 2
- The Case for Cut-Off Switches
- Windlass and Bow Thruster Relay Contact Chatter
- Preventing Hazardous Ground Faults on Boats
MATERIALS
- Electrical Conductivity of Materials
- Electrical Properties of Standard Annealed Copper Wire
- Tin Plating Explained
METERING
AC SOURCE SELECTION AND POWER DISTRIBUTION
AUTOMATIC CHARGING RELAYS
- Automatic Charging Relay - An Alternative to Multiple Output Charging Systems
- 120 Amp SI ACR Performance during Charger Float Mode
- The 120 Amp SI ACR Handles "Noisy" Charger Output
- Three ACRs from Blue Sea Systems
- Start Lockout for Two Engines
- Pilot House Navigation Battery Isolation Using the CL-Series BatteryLink" ACR
- Overcoming Dropout of House Electronics during Engine Starting
- Load Shedding Using the CL-Series BatteryLink" ACR
- Charge Current Limiting for a Remote Battery Using the CL-Series BatteryLink" ACR
- Blue Sea Systems' CL-Series BatteryLink" ACR
- Battery Isolators and Automatic Charging Relays
- Selecting the Appropriate Fuse Rating When Installing the 120A SI ACR
BATTERY SWITCHING
- Blue Sea Systems' Dual Circuit Battery Switch
- Installing the Dual Circuit Plus" Battery Switch and CL-Series BatteryLink" ACR
- m-Series Battery Switch
- Using Blue Sea Systems' Battery Switch AFD Terminals to Indicate Switch Position
BUSBARS
- 600 Ampere Busbar Negative Tie Point
- Improvements to Blue Sea Systems' 150A Busbars
- Supplying Power to Large Loads
CIRCUIT PROTECTION
- ST (Screw Terminal) Blade Fuse Block
- ST (Screw Terminal) Blade Fuse Block - Features and Applications
- Two New Circuit Breaker Designs Provide Protection from Accidental Switching
- WeatherDeck" Water Resistant Circuit Breaker Panels
DC POWER DISTRIBUTION
- DC Main Power Distribution
- Parallel DC Main Distribution System
- The Versatility of the 360 Panel System
- 360 Panel Circuit Breaker Module Offers Broadest Amperage Range Selection
- DC Push Button Reset-Only Circuit Breaker 360 Panels"An Economical Circuit Protection Solution
INVERTERS
MARINE CIRCUIT DESIGN TOOLS
- Introduction to Blue Sea Systems' New Online DC Circuit Wizard
- Simplified Circuit Protection Selection
- Circuit Wizard"Case Study
- DC Digital Meter
- Switching Inputs to Digital Meters Part I
- Switching Inputs to Digital Meters Part II
- Blue Sea Systems Introduces its Mini Clamp Multimeter
UPGRADING MARINE ELECTRICS
- Adding a Secondary Battery, Battery Switch, and Automatic Charging Relay (ACR)
- Refitting with a WeatherDeck" Circuit Breaker Panel
References
- Allowable Amperage in Conductors - Wire Sizing Chart
- Voltage Drop in Conductor - Wire Sizing Chart
- Technical Glossary
Introduction
Is there anything more frustrating than a breakdown? Without warning, a trusted piece of equipment just quits working! There is something more frustrating ...that tool you need to fix the problem is sitting at home in the tool box!
Breakdowns always seem to happen at the worst possible moment, and having the right tool to fix the problem doesn't help the initial feeling of letdown. But, when the dust settles, and it's either fix the problem or call the repair technican, having the right tool onboard makes the decision a little easier. If there isn't a technican to be called, frustration at leaving the right tool behind will be strong.
Considering the number of connections, wires and other components in an electrical system, reliability is quite good for most installations. We've seen many systems that makes us wonder if neat wiring with appropriate connections aren't just a waste of money ... if this system runs, anything will!
Failures can be expected in systems where the installation practices were poor, and little or no maintenance has taken place, but even the best installed equipment will fail. What does it take to fix an electrical failure?
A Sharp Set of Eyes
Electrical failures are often the result of a mechanical failure. A broken splice, a loose crimp lug, or a missing screw in a terminal block can interrupt electricity and your vacation.
Knowing what to look for is the first hurdle. Don't you wish you'd made a list of all the terminals that had wires on them before the trouble began? Wouldn't it be nice if all the wires were labelled and you knew where each of them went?
In a large system, knowing all the wires and their function can only be done a piece at a time, and only be someone highly skilled in the trade. However, it's a good idea to inspect the system when it works so you won't be so daunted by it all when it fails.
A Digital Voltmeter
Many years ago we were driving an old pickup in the desert east of San Diego, CA. We'd been camping miles from the nearest paved road and hadn't seen any other people for 3 days. Without warning, the truck quit running. Inspection of the distributer gave us the answer ...the rubbing block on the points had broken.
A spare set was in the toolbox, and minutes later we were ready to set the timing and be on our way. There was only one problem ...the voltmeter I used to indicate when the points actually opened was at home! After swearing, kicking the tires a bit, and fruitlessly trying to eyeball the difference between open and closed points at the timing point, some semblence of rational thought returned. My companion smoked, and cigarette paper was a thin insulator that worked between the point to indicate when the points gripped the paper, (closed), and when the points released the grip, (open). A voltmeter has been standard in my toolbox ever since!
Learning how to use a voltmeter is almost as simple as learning how to read a thermometer, or tell time using a digital watch! Don't know what a Volt is? So what, other than keeping everything from happening at once, even science can't explain time.
Not knowing what to do with the information derived from the voltmeter is a more serious problem. However, perhaps you can contact a technican by phone or radio and have them tell you what to measure and what it means! Telling a tech that a light doesn't work isn't very illuminating ...telling him that there is voltage on one side of the light and not on the other may get the light to go on over the tech's head.
Here's a simple test that anyone can make. An external alternator regulator is enabled from the ignition switch, or an oil pressure switch. Find that wire by measuring voltage on all the pins of the regulator with the ignition switch off and then with it on. You should find a wire that has voltage on it when the ignition switch is on and no voltage with the switch off. You will probably find two such wires if the regulator works ...one of them is the field wire going to the alternator.
Digital voltmeters are fairly inexpensive, and should be in every toolbox! Learn how to take readings ...you may even surprise yourself and learn a little about electricity while you're at it. You can't usually hear or see electricity, so when it comes to explaining symptoms to a long distance tech, nothing is better than a simple voltmeter.
A Clamp-On Ammeter
Voltage readings can be used to tell if a battery is being charged or discharged, but if you want to know how fast, you need an ammeter. Ammeters are made that have opening jaws so that they can be `clamped' over a wire. They don't really clamp onto the wire, rather the wire goes through the center of the jaws. Once clamped over a wire, the jaws measure the strength of the magnetic field produced by flowing current, and translate the measurement into Amps.
If you want to know how well the alternator or battery charger is operating, the ammeter is the tool. Want to know how much the inverter draws with the microwave cooking? The ammeter can tell you.
