Battery

Category Archives: Battery

Alternator

An alternator is an electromechanical device that converts mechanical energy to electrical energy in the form of alternating current. Usually the word refers to small rotating machines driven by automotive and other internal combustion engines.

Alternators are used in modern automobiles to charge the battery and to power a car’s electric system when its engine is running. Automotive alternators use a set of rectifiers (diode bridge) to convert the AC output of the alternator to the DC used in vehicle’s electrical system .

Marine alternators used in yachts are similar to automotive alternators, with appropriate adaptations to the salt-water environment. Marine alternators are designed to be explosion proof so that brush sparking will not ignite explosive gas mixtures in an engine room environment. They may be 12 or 24 volt depending on the type of system installed. Larger marine diesels may have two or more alternators to cope with the heavy electrical demand of a modern yacht. On single alternator circuits, the power is split between the engine starting battery and the domestic or house battery (or batteries) by use of a split-charge diode (battery isolator) or a mechanical switch (battery switch)

-adapted from Wikipedia

An electrical battery is one or more electrochemical cells that convert stored chemical energy into electrical energy.Batteries are a common power source for many household, industrial and transportation applications.

There are two types of batteries: primary batteries (disposable batteries), which are designed to be used once and discarded, and secondary batteries (rechargeable batteries), which are designed to be recharged and used multiple times.

Rechargeable batteries are what are used in automotive and marine applications. They can be recharged by applying electric current. Devices to supply the appropriate current are engine alternators or chargers.

The most common form of rechargeable battery is the lead-acid battery. This battery is notable in that it contains a liquid in an unsealed container, requiring that the battery be kept upright and the area be well ventilated to ensure safe dispersal of the hydrogen gas produced by these batteries during overcharging.

Battery Boxes

Battery boxes are used to secure the batteries on a boat against the extreme movement of the craft on water – a marine industry standard and a Coast Guard rule.

While batteries may sometimes be mounted on trays, they are more often stored and held in marine electrical battery boxes, which, besides keeping the battery in place, also protects it from exposure to outside elements like moisture while also containing the corrosive acids of the battery.

Battery boxes also make moving and transporting the battery safe and easy. Battery boxes normally include a box with molded handles, a lid, a strap to hold down the lid and mounting hardware.

Battery boxes are available from several marine manufacturers, although the most well-known are built by Attwood Marine.

Battery Cables

Battery cables are one of the most crucial parts of any boat wiring system.

The foundation of the entire 12 volt marine electrical system is the batteries – both for energy and grounding, which are equally important. For each, the battery cable is a pivotal link.

Because of the nature of DC power and the easy potential for current loss over distance, battery cables are constructed of thick heavy duty copper and highly insulated. This makes them not only bulky, but expensive.

Good marine electrical design will use the optimal thickness (gauge) of the cables to provide the most current, while attempting to limit the distance they run, as longer runs necessitate increasing the gauge. Typically the cables will be terminated with either battery lugs (for the battery connection) or ring terminals, or most commonly a combination of the two.

Battery cables are available from many sources, although several websites now offer completely custom battery cables. The flexibility of these configurations allows boaters to get precisely the length, color, gauge and end-fittings that their boat wiring project requires.

Battery Management

Battery management is the efficient monitor and control the outflow of power from your boat’s batteries.

The “prime directive” of marine electrical battery management to to avoid the overuse of this finite power supply, which may eventually compromise an important function, like starting your engine.

Marine electrical battery management can be as simple as monitoring a voltmeter to determine battery voltage; to the use of switches to turn on certain batteries, while isolating others from use ; to having sophisticated voltage sensitive relays that will do the job of monitoring levels and switching batteries on and off automatically – often called a Smart Battery Switch.

Any boater that will be spending time at anchor running electrical accessories, like stereos, will need to maintain some awareness of the condition and level of their battery supply and life. The inability to restart an engine (which is a key source of recharge for the batteries), or to lose the use of a boat’s navigation lighting, boat horns or bilge pumps because of dead batteries is a situation to be avoided. Thus the importance of battery management.

Battery Terminology

Words of caution:

Lead-acid batteries contain a diluted sulfuric acid electrolyte, which is a highly corrosive poison and will produce flammable and toxic gasses when recharged and explode if ignited. According to PREVENT BLINDNESS AMERICA, in 2003 nearly 6,000 motorists suffered serious eye injuries from working around car batteries. The U.S. Eye Injury Registry reports that it is the third leading cause of eye injuries at home. When working with batteries, you need to wear glasses (or preferably Z-87 rated safety goggles), have plenty of ventilation, remove your jewelry, and exercise caution. Do NOT allow battery electrolyte to mix with salt water. Even small quantities of this combination will produce chlorine gas that can KILL you! If available, please always follow the manufacturer's instructions for testing, jumping, installing, discharging, charging, equalizing and maintaining batteries.

A Glossary of Battery Terms

Ampere-Hour -- One ampere-hour is equal to a current of one ampere flowing for one hour. A unit-quantity of electricity used as a measure of the amount of electrical charge that may be obtained from a storage battery before it requires recharging.
Ampere-Hour Capacity -- The number of ampere-hours which can be delivered by a storage battery on a single discharge. The ampere-hour capacity of a battery on discharge is determined by a number of factors, of which the following are the most important: final limiting voltage; quantity of electrolyte; discharge rate; density of electrolyte; design of separators; temperature, age, and life history of the battery; and number, design, and dimensions of electrodes.
Anode -- In a primary or secondary cell, the metal electrode that gives up electrons to the load circuit and dissolves into the electrolyte.
Aqueous Batteries -- Batteries with water-based electrolytes.
Available Capacity -- The total battery capacity, usually expressed in ampere-hours or milliampere-hours that are available to perform work. This depends on factors such as the endpoint voltage, quantity and density of electrolyte, temperature, discharge rate, age, and the life history of the battery.
Battery -- A device that transforms chemical energy into electric energy. The term is usually applied to a group of two or more electric cells connected together electrically. In common usage, the term "battery" is also applied to a single cell, such as a household battery.
Battery Types -- There are, in general, two type of batteries: primary batteries, and secondary storage or accumulator batteries. Primary types, although sometimes consisting of the same active materials as secondary types, are constructed so that only one continuous or intermittent discharge can be obtained. Secondary types are constructed so that they may be recharged, following a partial or complete discharge, by the flow of direct current through them in a direction opposite to the current flow on discharge. By recharging after discharge, a higher state of oxidation is created at the positive plate or electrode and a lower state at the negative plate, returning the plates to approximately their original charged condition.
Battery Capacity -- The electric output of a cell or battery on a service test delivered before the cell reaches a specified final electrical condition and may be expressed in ampere-hours, watt-hours, or similar units. The capacity in watt-hours is equal to the capacity in ampere-hours multiplied by the battery voltage.
Battery Charger -- A device capable of supplying electrical energy to a battery.
Battery-Charging Rate -- The current expressed in amperes at which a storage battery is charged.
Battery Voltage, final -- The prescribed lower-limit voltage at which battery discharge is considered complete. The cutoff or final voltage is usually chosen so that the useful capacity of the battery is realized. The cutoff voltage varies with the type of battery, the rate of discharge, the temperature, and the kind of service in which the battery is used. The term "cutoff voltage" is applied more particularly to primary batteries, and "final voltage" to storage batteries. Synonym: Voltage, cutoff.
C -- The rated capacity, in ampere-hours, for a specific, constant discharge current (where i is the number of hours the cell can deliver this current). For example, the C₅ capacity is the ampere-hours that can be delivered by a cell at constant current in 5 hours. As a cell's capacity is not the same at all rates, C₅ is usually less than C₂₀ for the same cell.
Capacity -- The quantity of electricity delivered by a battery under specified conditions, usually expressed in ampere-hours.
Cathode -- In a primary or secondary cell, the electrode that, in effect, oxidizes the anode or absorbs the electrons.
Cell -- An electrochemical device, composed of positive and negative plates, separator, and electrolyte, which is capable of storing electrical energy. When encased in a container and fitted with terminals, it is the basic "building block" of a battery.
Charge -- Applied to a storage battery, the conversion of electric energy into chemical energy within the cell or battery. This restoration of the active materials is accomplished by maintaining a unidirectional current in the cell or battery in the opposite direction to that during discharge; a cell or battery which is said to be charged is understood to be fully charged.
Charge Rate -- The current applied to a secondary cell to restore its capacity. This rate is commonly expressed as a multiple of the rated capacity of the cell. For example, the C/10 charge rate of a 500 Ah cell is expressed as,
C/10 rate = 500 Ah / 10 h = 50 A.
Charge, state of -- Condition of a cell in terms of the capacity remaining in the cell.
Charging -- The process of supplying electrical energy for conversion to stored chemical energy.
Constant-Current Charge -- A charging process in which the current of a storage battery is maintained at a constant value. For some types of lead-acid batteries this may involve two rates called the starting and finishing rates.
Constant-Voltage Charge -- A charging process in which the voltage of a storage battery at the terminals of the battery is held at a constant value.
Cycle -- One sequence of charge and discharge. Deep cycling requires that all the energy to an end voltage established for each system be drained from the cell or battery on each discharge. In shallow cycling, the energy is partially drained on each discharge; i.e., the energy may be any value up to 50%.
Cycle Life -- For secondary rechargeable cells or batteries, the total number of charge/discharge cycles the cell can sustain before it becomes inoperative. In practice, end of life is usually considered to be reached when the cell or battery delivers approximately 80% of rated ampere-hour capacity.
Depth of Discharge -- The relative amount of energy withdrawn from a battery relative to how much could be withdrawn if the battery were discharged until exhausted.
Discharge -- The conversion of the chemical energy of the battery into electric energy.
Discharge, deep -- Withdrawal of all electrical energy to the end-point voltage before the cell or battery is recharged.
Discharge, high-rate -- Withdrawal of large currents for short intervals of time, usually at a rate that would completely discharge a cell or battery in less than one hour.
Discharge, low-rate -- Withdrawal of small currents for long periods of time, usually longer than one hour.
Drain -- Withdrawal of current from a cell.
Dry Cell -- A primary cell in which the electrolyte is absorbed in a porous medium, or is otherwise restrained from flowing. Common practice limits the term "dry cell" to the Leclanch" cell, which is the common commercial type.
Electrochemical Couple -- The system of active materials within a cell that provides electrical energy storage through an electrochemical reaction.
Electrode -- An electrical conductor through which an electric current enters or leaves a conducting medium, whether it be an electrolytic solution, solid, molten mass, gas, or vacuum. For electrolytic solutions, many solids, and molten masses, an electrode is an electrical conductor at the surface of which a change occurs from conduction by electrons to conduction by ions. For gases and vacuum, the electrodes merely serve to conduct electricity to and from the medium.
Electrolyte -- A chemical compound which, when fused or dissolved in certain solvents, usually water, will conduct an electric current. All electrolytes in the fused state or in solution give rise to ions which conduct the electric current.
Electropositivity -- The degree to which an element in a galvanic cell will function as the positive element of the cell. An element with a large electropositivity will oxidize faster than an element with a smaller electropositivity.
End-of-Discharge Voltage -- The voltage of the battery at termination of a discharge.
Energy -- Output capability; expressed as capacity times voltage, or watt-hours.
Energy Density -- Ratio of cell energy to weight or volume (watt-hours per pound, or watt-hours per cubic inch).
Float Charging -- Method of recharging in which a secondary cell is continuously connected to a constant-voltage supply that maintains the cell in fully charged condition.
Galvanic Cell -- A combination of electrodes, separated by electrolyte, that is capable of producing electrical energy by electrochemical action.
Gassing -- The evolution of gas from one or both of the electrodes in a cell. Gassing commonly results from self-discharge or from the electrolysis of water in the electrolyte during charging.
Internal Resistance -- The resistance to the flow of an electric current within the cell or battery.
Memory Effect -- A phenomenon in which a cell, operated in successive cycles to the same, but less than full, depth of discharge, temporarily loses the remainder of its capacity at normal voltage levels (usually applies only to Ni-Cd cells).
Negative Terminal -- The terminal of a battery from which electrons flow in the external circuit when the cell discharges.
Nonaqueous Batteries -- Cells that do not contain water, such as those with molten salts or organic electrolytes.
Ohm's Law -- The formula that describes the amount of current flowing through a circuit. Voltage = Current " Resistance.
Open Circuit -- Condition of a battery which is neither on charge nor on discharge (i.e., disconnected from a circuit).
Open-Circuit Voltage -- The difference in potential between the terminals of a cell when the circuit is open (i.e., a no-load condition).
Oxidation -- A chemical reaction that results in the release of electrons by an electrode's active material.
Parallel Connection -- The arrangement of cells in a battery made by connecting all positive terminals together and all negative terminals together, the voltage of the group being only that of one cell and the current drain through the battery being divided among the several cells. See Series Connection.
Polarity -- Refers to the charges residing at the terminals of a battery.
Positive Terminal -- The terminal of a battery toward which electrons flow through the external circuit when the cell discharges.
Primary Battery -- A battery made up of primary cells. See Primary Cell.
Primary Cell -- A cell designed to produce electric current through an electrochemical reaction that is not efficiently reversible. Hence the cell, when discharged, cannot be efficiently recharged by an electric current. Note: When the available energy drops to zero, the cell is usually discarded. Primary cells may be further classified by the types of electrolyte used.
Rated Capacity -- The number of ampere-hours a cell can deliver under specific conditions (rate of discharge, end voltage, temperature); usually the manufacturer's rating.
Rechargeable -- Capable of being recharged; refers to secondary cells or batteries.
Recombination -- State in which the gasses normally formed within the battery cell during its operation, are recombined to form water.
Reduction -- A chemical process that results in the acceptance of electrons by an electrode's active material.
Seal -- The structural part of a galvanic cell that restricts the escape of solvent or electrolyte from the cell and limits the ingress of air into the cell (the air may dry out the electrolyte or interfere with the chemical reactions).
Secondary Battery -- A battery made up of secondary cells. See Storage Battery; Storage Cell.
Self Discharge -- Discharge that takes place while the battery is in an open-circuit condition.
Separator -- The permeable membrane that allows the passage of ions, but prevents electrical contact between the anode and the cathode.
Series Connection -- The arrangement of cells in a battery configured by connecting the positive terminal of each successive cell to the negative terminal of the next adjacent cell so that their voltages are cumulative. See Parallel Connection.
Shelf Life -- For a dry cell, the period of time (measured from date of manufacture), at a storage temperature of 21"C (69"F), after which the cell retains a specified percentage (usually 90%) of its original energy content.
Short-Circuit Current -- That current delivered when a cell is short-circuited (i.e., the positive and negative terminals are directly connected with a low-resistance conductor).
Starting-Lighting-Ignition (SLI) Battery -- A battery designed to start internal combustion engines and to power the electrical systems in automobiles when the engine is not running. SLI batteries can be used in emergency lighting situations.
Stationary Battery -- A secondary battery designed for use in a fixed location.
Storage Battery -- An assembly of identical cells in which the electrochemical action is reversible so that the battery may be recharged by passing a current through the cells in the opposite direction to that of discharge. While many non-storage batteries have a reversible process, only those that are economically rechargeable are classified as storage batteries. Synonym: Accumulator; Secondary Battery. See Secondary Cell.
Storage Cell -- An electrolytic cell for the generation of electric energy in which the cell after being discharged may be restored to a charged condition by an electric current flowing in a direction opposite the flow of current when the cell discharges. Synonym: Secondary Cell. See Storage Battery.
Taper Charge -- A charge regime delivering moderately high-rate charging current when the battery is at a low state of charge and tapering the current to lower rates as the battery becomes more fully charged.
Terminals -- The parts of a battery to which the external electric circuit is connected.
Thermal Runaway -- A condition whereby a cell on charge or discharge will destroy itself through internal heat generation caused by high overcharge or high rate of discharge or other abusive conditions.
Trickle Charging -- A method of recharging in which a secondary cell is either continuously or intermittently connected to a constant-current supply that maintains the cell in fully charged condition.
Vent -- A normally sealed mechanism that allows for the controlled escape of gases from within a cell.
Voltage, cutoff -- Voltage at the end of useful discharge. (See Voltage, end-point.)
Voltage, end-point -- Cell voltage below which the connected equipment will not operate or below which operation is not recommended.
Voltage, nominal -- Voltage of a fully charged cell when delivering rated current.
Wet Cell -- A cell, the electrolyte of which is in liquid form and free to flow and move.

Bilge Pumps

An critical component on most boats, the bilge pump is a commonly used mechanical method for pumping out the water that invariably gathers in the bilge of most watercraft.

These inexpensive but often powerful pumps are expected to perform in often varying (and occasionally severe) conditions. Not only are they required to function while a boat is cutting through heavy waves, but also in the middle of the night after a rain storm when the boat is docked and the owner is gone.

The pumps come in a variety of pumping capacities, stated in gallon per hour (GPH), and are usually powered by 12V DC. The methods of wiring them for switching on can be for manual or automatic operation, and most often is for both. Manual switching typically uses a switch on the dashboard. Automatic operation involves the use of a float switch that senses the water level in the bilge. Once a level is reached that can be pumped out, the switch turns the pump on.

Bilge pumps are manufactured by several well know companies, including Attwood Marine. The Attwood Tsunami Series features innovative engineering and compact design, that delivers high output from a small package. Attwood bilge pumps are famous for using the most advanced material available, including the best quality bearings and state-of-the-art brushes, alloys and magnets.

They offer three high-efficiency pumps that move water at output capacities of 500 gph, 800 gph and 1200 gph.

Electronic Propulsion Project

The boat (Hammer P) is a 1966 -35 ft. OWENS flagship. She is double plank mahogany on oak frames, Teak decks and fiberglass cabin shell and fly bridge.

Equipment when we got her included mismatched and somewhat tired For V8 engines, Borg-Warner Velvet Drive transmissions all fresh water-cooled. Also outfitted with a 6.5 KW Kohler Gen- Set.

boat wiring image

By mid 2006, I had decided that re-powering was essential. Having toyed with the electric idea for a year or so, I finally decided- "Just Do it" and began the search for a supplier for all the components. After considerable browsing catalogs and online information, this is what I chose for our application: (This is basic electric stuff)

2-Advanced DC Motors-L91-4003-13hp-72Volt

2-Curtis-PMC Motor Controllers- 72Volt-400amp

2-Merritt Inline Joystick control

2 -Albright Main Contactors

2 -Albright Reversing Contactors

3 -400 amp Ferraz/S'mut Safety Fuses

1-Link 10 E Meter

1-Onboard Charger 48-108 volt

2-Deltec Amp meter shunts

2-Westberg Ammeters

180 Lin. feet 2/0 Welding cable

90 Cable Lugs

24 -L16H Trojan Batteries

That is pretty much the electrics of the system, plus misc. hook up wire, etc.

The Mechanics portion needs some thought: Motor to shaft reduction, belt tensioner and battery placement. As you will see by the photos, I had to lengthen the propeller shaft to accommodate the larger pulley for a reduction ratio. I chose a 4:1 reduction because the motors need to turn fast enough to run cool and I need 1000rpm at the shaft to match our previous cruising speed. The rest of the mounting hardware is like a big erector set. All bolted parts were pre-drilled except for bolting to the original engine bunks. These were bolted in place after shaft augment. Motor mounts are adjustable for belt tension and tracking.

There are two flange bearings each side, and opposed for thrust bearings. This all makes a fairly compact package and we can now decide on battery placement. In our case, we are designing a 72 Volt system. Battery placement is somewhat a balancing act. Original components, (fuel) was stored behind the drive train and of course, motors amid ship. Fuel weight (160 gallons) was about 1300 lbs. Motors and transmissions about 1500 lbs. New battery pack weight: about 3000 lbs. To best balance the boat, I put 8 batteries forward and four behind each motor. With motors, batteries and electrical equipment we have an approximate weight gain of 1000 lbs.

Now, looking at performance. First we need to consider the boat Shape and Hull design. As the professionals see it, this is the second poorest hull design for electric power. Only a barge with square ends is worse. The ideal craft would have a sharp entry, a long waterline length and the transom out of the water. Boat design is always subject to compromise and the ideal form is not always practical. In our case, we will work with what is at hand and improvise, compromise and succeed.

Operation of the boat has not really changed. Still have twin props, still a hull speed just short of 6 knots (6.9 mph). What has changed is the planning and navigation. Without regenerative power we have to plan with power consumption. With batteries one should not run them totally dead. Always plan for about a 20% 'no touch' area to protect the battery life. In our case, we have about 670 usable amps that are available. Our "E' meter tells us exactly what power we have used and how long it will last based upon the rate of discharge over the last 10-12 minutes. It's nice to have that information available at the touch of a button.

For our longer distance cruises, we have adapted a temporary generator that run our battery charger at about 10 amps at best. Hi tech. chargers and modified sine wave generators are not very compatible for high output.Even the 10 amps will help some to increase longer distances. Over a 6-hour cruise, those 10 amps will return 60amps. Ifwe are traveling at 60 amps this has gained an extra hour of travel time. Of course now that we have made the trip, if it was one way, we need to allow adequate time to recharge. If we have used 550 amps and the charger output is 20 amps, potentially it could take 30-36 hours to recharge. Discharge rate and your speed are directly related and the need for speed shortens the trip. Here are some discharge rates that will help:

40-amp draw will run about 12.5 hrs.

60-amp draw will run about 8.5 hrs.

80-amp draw will run about 6.25 hrs.

Needless to say, the faster you attempt to travel, the shorter your travel time will be. This is where hull speed, weight and power storageneed to be considered.

boat wiring image

Fratcher on Alternators

Modern cruising vessels have high electrical demands, where refrigeration, radar, laptop computers and even plasma TVs are the norm. Keeping batteries charged is a challenge, and fitting a second alternator, says Scott Fratcher, is an easy solution

Alternator II

More charge needs either a bigger alternator, or better yet, a second alternator which adds significantly more potential to the boat than only increasing the amperage of the original alternator.

The math is easy. Imagine a typical diesel with a 55 amp alternator. If the alternator is removed and replaced with a 100 amp model, we gain 45 amps. If you add a second 130 amp alternator to the original 55 amp system, you instantly send a battery-boosting 185 amps into the electrical system.

Higher charging also increases the vessel’s safety margin. Single alternators may fail due to overwork – the constant heavy load to recharge the boat’s electrical demand takes its toll. This could lead to discharged batteries, with all electrical systems shut down. I’ve encountered many boaties who’ve spent an uncomfortable night in the shipping lanes alternating the last of the battery power between radar and navigation lights…

Many consider the decision to fit a second alternator a no-brainer. The only question is: how do you install one easily? This article discusses a technique to mount a second alternator on almost any inboard engine. And it’s worth noting that the process can be used to belt drive more than just an alternator – a hydraulic pump, dewatering bilge pump or anything else you might need to turn are also possibilities.

SIX STEPS TO ALTERNATOR II

Design and planning
Mounting a second front pulley
Making a base plate
Building a bracket from the base plate
Installing a belt tensioning device
Bolting in the alternator

DESIGN AND PLANNING
Start the design process by taking an alternator in hand and holding it next to the engine with the pulleys aligned.

There should be 12 possible positions: starboard low, starboard high, port low, port high, and above or below the drive pulley.

Face the alternator aft and you have six more possible locations – for a total of 12.

Hold the alternator in all 12 positions. Pick the best two or three positions and compare the possibilities. Choose a mounting position with the alternator as close to the engine as possible. Look for access, wire runs, mounting bolt holes in the engine and cooling air.

MOUNTING A SECOND PULLEY
We need to spin the second alternator from a second drive pulley at the front of the engine. Your engine may already have one, but usually you’ll have to add one, bolting it to the front of your existing engine pulley.

First, choose a pulley size. For a typical 30 to 75hp engine with maximum rpm of around 3600, a good drive pulley diameter is about 175mm.

I’ve experimented with larger pulleys (up to 230mm) but it’s not effective as most engines begin to hunt at low rpm. Conversely, if the pulley diameter is less than 150mm I often have to run the engine up to 1200rpm to get a good charge.

If in doubt, duplicating the original pulley size is usually a good bet.

There are two easy methods to fit a spare pulley to the front of an engine:

Have a machine shop make the new pulley; or,
Modify an existing pulley.

METHOD 1
A machine shop makes the new pulley, the simplest but most expensive option.

The machine shop will need the bolt pattern and centering ring measurements from the existing drive pulley on your engine. If you can take the measurements from the manual, the machine shop should have an easy job. If you have to take the measurements yourself, use digital calipers. Be sure to scrape away any old paint so your measurement is metal to metal.

Note: If the alternator is to produce more than 80amps, you should use a dual belt drive. You’re pushing the limit with a single belt – it will often slip, leaving gobs of black, sticky dust in your engineroom.

METHOD 2
Buy an “off-the-shelf” pulley at your local hardware store and have a machine shop make a new centering ring that fits your engine. You can even use an old car’s sheetmetal “stamped” pulley. The machine shop will combine the pulley onto a centering ring and you’re ready to install.

This option has the advantage of knowing the pulley face angles are going to be correct and smooth. It does not take much angle error, a nick or lathe marks left in the pulley face to make the belt begin to “dust”. Belt dusting is the major problem in building a dual alternator system. Twist, misalignment, rough surfaces, and drawing too much load all add to the amount of the belt dust. Commercial pulleys help solve this issue.

MAKING THE BASE PLATE
The base plate is a steel plate that gets bolted to the engine, and it becomes the base which holds the soon-to-be fabricated alternator bracket. The bracket is typically welded to the base plate.

Look for flat areas on the side of the engine block near where you want to mount your alternator. You want the plate to cover a minimum of three bolt holes – five or six is better.

Cut a piece of steel to cover the bolt holes. Using 6mm plate is the minimum – 8mm is better. Test fit the piece of steel over the area of the engine block. If it all fits and covers the bolt holes, you’re ready to start marking and drilling the holes.

Marking where the holes are to be drilled can be challenging, especially if the plate is in a difficult to reach location. Here’s an easy trick – it’s what I call the “sneak and tap” approach, and involves using a sharpened bolt screwed into each of the engine bolt holes (one at a time) to serve as a “reverse punch”.

Leave just enough bolt thread (the sharpened point) showing so you can use a pair of pliers to remove the bolt. Lay the base plate in the exact final location. Now for the tricky part – strike the steel plate with a single sharp blow from a hammer directly over the punch. Once marked you are ready to drill the hole.

Remove the bolt/punch and shift it to a new hole. Fasten the base plate (with a bolt through the newly-drilled hole) in position. Another sharp tap, remove the plate and drill the new hole. Repeat this process until all holes are drilled. This method is fast and easy and leaves no sloppy holes. If you make the base plate perfect, the rest of the job becomes much easier.

BUILDING A BRACKET
The bracket is the metal frame that holds the alternator, allowing it to pivot for tensioning the belt. I like to use a 50mm piece of 6mm flat bar. Cut two ears and weld them on the flat bar at a 90º angle (see photo).You should now have a base plate and bracket all made up. They may need to be connected with a strut (depending on the position of the alternator) to get the two pulleys in alignment. It’s usually the simplest to weld the plate, strut and bracket together.

ALIGNMENT
To find the correct alignment for the alternator, lay a wooden dowel rod in the drive pulley of the engine. Let the rod find its natural centre. You can now simply lift the rod up and down to show where an exact straight line to the slave pulley will fall. Reverse the procedure until the slave pulley is pointed directly at the drive pulley.

Remove all parts and tack the strut into position.

Replace and see if it all fits. If it does it’s time to weld it up and paint. Use this dowel rod method anytime you want an easy check of belt alignment.

MAKING A BELT-TENSIONER
Turnbuckle tension arms are an easy solution for making an alternator adjusting arm, and you only need simple tools – a hacksaw, welder and a drill. If you were making a conventional car-type tensioning arm, you’d have to cut an arc in the flat bar with an oxy-acetylene torch. Many boaties fit this turnbuckle swing arm to their existing alternator just to solve adjustment problems.

Begin with a half-inch or larger open barrel turnbuckle, and remove the studs from the barrel.

Cut the centre out of the barrel, leaving leavening 120 to 150mm of turnbuckle barrel.

Weld the barrel back together. Put the studs back in place and cut them to the length you worked out for the project at hand. Weld a flat plate to the end of each stud, drill a hole in the plates and mount to the engine.

STOP ENGINE BEFORE TURNING “OFF”
Ever notice what battery switches have printed on their faces? We all know not to disconnect the batteries while the engine is running, but what would happen if we did?

An alternator diode would fail – and that’s not good.

The reason is buried in Ohm’s Law which lays out the relationship between volts, amps, and watts. An alternator’s total power output is measured in watts. A typical high-output alternator might be charging 100amps at 14V – 100 x 14 = 1400 watts. If we had a 24-volt system, the alternator would be producing 50amps at 28 volts to make 1400 watts.

So, when we have an alternator producing 1400 watts and someone turns off the battery switch, the 1400 watts is already in the pipeline, so to speak. But the load (or current or amp draw) just dropped to zero because of disconnection to the battery.

Ohm’s Law tells us 1400 watts divided by zero (our new amp load) equals infinity. In other words, the voltage inside the alternator will climb toward infinity till it finds an escape route (the path of least resistance). That’s the shortest path to ground and typically, that’s the thin film inside a diode. Pop! The diode shorts.

Quickly switching the batteries back on might save the situation, but usually the damage is done. The boat owner may see the output of the alternator suddenly drop by a third. A typical complaint from boaties is: “My 100amp alternator is now producing 66 amps on the meter.”

This is because the alternator stator is really three-phase, and has three separate windings combining to produce 100amps. Since only the diode was ruined, each phase of the stator is still producing 33amps. If all three phases of the alternator are still producing 33amps each, why is the boat’s electrical meter only showing 66amps?

The “lost” 33amps are still being produced, but they’re not being rectified because that is the diode’s job. And un-rectified means alternating current (AC) is entering your DC system.

This is bad. At the same time that we are charging at 14 volts DC, we are also sending a battery-destroying AC “charge” into the boat’s electrical system. And because the boat’s electrical charge meter does not read AC, the owner has no clue something has gone wrong.

Those 33 AC amps are destroying the boat’s battery bank, electrical boards, and maybe even the hull zincs.

DIODE TEST
To check whether your alternator has a shorted diode you can clamp the positive alternator output lead with an AC/DC “clamp amp” meter. Switch the meter to DC amp and read the charge rate. Switch the meter to AC and we should see three or four amps.

A reading half of the DC charge rate indicates a bad diode. For example, if we were to see 66amps DC and 33amps AC, this would tell the technician it’s time to pull the alternator and change the diode pack.

Although not as accurate, we might also take a high-quality digital volt meter and measure voltage at the back of the alternator. We should see around 14 volts, but switch to AC and we should see around seven volts. Reading 14 volts AC could also indicate a faulty diode.

Adapted from Scott Fratcher’s How To Make Money With Boats, available at www.yachtwork.com

AUTO TENSIONING ARM
An automatic tensioning arm is another easy solution for a DIY installed alternator.

You can buy a “rasta” or LoveJoy arm for automatic belt tensioning from a good bearing supply house. Check out http://www.lovejoy-inc.com/

The device costs about $100. Simply mount the roller inside the unloaded belt between the drive pulley and alternator. In the photo above, the pulleys turn clockwise. Adjust the tension and ignore it for the life of the belt.

The second advantage of using a “rasta” or LoveJoy tensioning arm is the alternator does not have to rotate away from the engine to adjust the belt. This may mean a lot if you have a tight space to work in. You simply mount the alternator as close to the engine as you can manage and let the tensioning arm take up the belt slack.

AUTHOR PROFILE
Scott Fratcher has designed and installed more than 100 dual alternator systems. More photos can be found at www.yachtwork.com

Mr. Fratcher’s highly regarded books include

Mr. Fratcher also has an excellent website that is highly recommended to all easyacdc.com readers. Please be sure to visit Team Yachtwork and thank him for his thoughtful generosity.